|1). The base of any scenic model is usually a structural
frame. If the scenery is contoured and not flat, the frame is simply
made using plywood formers shaped to represent the finished landscape
shape. On large layouts these formers can form part of an open frame
construction baseboard supporting track beds and cut out for tunnels
etc. Remember the lowest datum point on your layout may be below track
level e.g. a water feature.
||2). Once the structural frame is complete, form the landscape
profile using chicken wire with a small mesh size. Most builders
merchants and some DIY stores sell a 6mm square mesh that is best
suited. With such a fine mesh the plaster bandage will not 'sink' into
the mesh which can show through if chicken wire is used. Staple gun the mesh
to the timber formers, hammer
down the staples to keep them out of view later. For smaller spans a
cardboard weave can be used. This should be made more waterproof and rigid by applying a
coat of varnish.
|3). Apply the landscape cover material, usually 'modroc'
plaster bandage or similar. The first layer is best applied by cutting
the bandage into small squares (approx' 4" x 4") before
soaking as this is easier to conform around shapes and easier to
||4). Before applying a second layer, use a decorators flexible
filler cartridge to go around all scenic edges. Whilst the filler is
still wet apply the second layer bedding the bandage into the filler
to guarantee a flexible neat definition that is crack resistant at
joins. This is most needed around civil engineering features e.g.
tunnel mouths or retaining walls and where the scenery may join a flat